Day 27 - Sun, June 29, 2008 - Williams, AZ to Needles, CA - 323.8 km/202.4 mi. Total 8943.5 km./5589.7 mi.

High Temp noted today 49C/120F (between Oatman, AZ and Needles, CA).

Most of the day was spent on Route 66 beginning east of Seligman and continuing most of the way to Needles. Stopped off at Seligman to show Ruth some of the sites. She was entertained by Juan Delgadillo's son at the famous Snow Cap Drive-in. Ask her about the small ice cream cone and the mustard.

Saw a few series of red Burma-Shave roadside signs used from the 1920's to the 1960's as a successful sales pitch for Burma-Shave brushless shaving cream. Here's an example of one series that we saw: He tried to cross; As fast train neared; Death didn't draft him; He volunteered; Burma-Shave.

Took Sitgreaves Pass through the Black Mountains on the way to Oatman. This is the area where the Model T's heading west had to back up the steep and winding road in order to continue their voyage to California. Followed a Harley on this road and was continually braking when approaching corners to avoid getting too close to him. Since he was riding a lot slower than my bike is capable of, and I was watching him more than watching ahead for my line through the curves, I looked for and finally got a chance to pass and ride at a more comfortable speed. This was my second time through here in two weeks and since the driver must keep his eyes on the road, Ruth did the site-seeing. This time, however, I mounted my video camera so that I'll be able to eventually see the countryside in this area.

Rested in Oatman and had some nachos and a Sarsaparilla (pronounced sas-per-ILL-uh). There are wild burros here that have the run of the town and will follow tourists around looking for carrots. Found out that all of the burros have names and when a new one is born, the local residents are in competition to name it. The first one to spot a new burro and post a picture with the name in the post office usually wins naming rights but heated arguments have been known to occur. Hit the hottest weather riding from Oatman to Needles. Ruth was exhausted from the heat and even the woman at our motel noticed this. Gave Ruth more water and she rested in our a/c room until she recovered. Didn't use my gloves when I moved my motorcycle from the office to our room and almost burned my fingers on the clutch and brake levers.

Temperature when we returned to our room from dinner at 20:45 was 40C/104F. Was told that the water in the pool was well over 100F/38C but went for a swim anyway. Felt refreshing when first getting in because it was cooler than the air. However, after a little while it felt less and less refreshing.

Photos: Burros in Oatman; Burrow following tourist with carrots; Told you it's hot here; Ruth and her do-rag, cooling vest and necktie.

Day 26 - Sat, June 28, 2008 - Williams, AZ to Grand Canyon to Willliams - 196.7 km/122.9 mi. Total 8619.7 km./5387.3 mi.

Highest temp noticed today 35C/95F.

Went up to The Grand Canyon today and spent about 4 hrs. there. Major erosion. Everything I've seen and heard about it doesn't do it justice. You really have to see it to appreciate the size. Took lots of pictures and videos so will see how everything turns out when I get home.

Had dinner at Doc Halliday Restaurant in Williams. Prime rib was delicious and had a Sunset Amber Ale from the Grand Canyon Brewery in Williams.

Photos: Grand Canyon View; GC View; GC View; Ron shooting video; Ruth on the edge; Colorado River in centre of photo.

Day 25 - Fri, June 27, 2008 - Las Vegas, NV to Williams, AZ - 359.8 km/224.9 mi. Total 8423.0 km./5264.4 mi.

Highest temp observed today 38C/100F.

Had breakfast in Boulder City, NV and noticed a place advertising sheepskin seat covers. Stopped in after breakfast and bought a sheepskin that fit my seat pretty well rather than order a custom one. Have heard and read good things about the comfort of one so now I'll find out.

Crossed the Colorado River from Nevada to Arizona over the Hoover Dam. They're building a new bridge over the river so I expect that soon the route over the dam will no longer be used.

Noticed things getting greener as we headed from Kingman to Williams, an increase in elevation of approx. 3,400 feet. Dined at a great restaurant in town called The Red Raven. Way above the quality I expected in a small Route 66 town.

Grand Canyon is the plan for tomorrow.

Photos: Hoover Dam from bottom; Hoover Dam from top; My new sheepskin seat cover; Ruth at Route 66 Garage/Museum in Williams.

Day 24 - Thur, June 26, 2008 - Bishop, CA to Las Vegas, NV - 557.5 km/348.4 mi. Total 8063.2 km./5039.5 mi.

Highest temp noticed today was 44C/112F at Furnace Creek.

Started out in Sierra Nevada Mountains and went to Panamint and Margosa Mountain Ranges in Death Valley National Park. Very hot today in Death Valley National Park, which is normal. Saw signs in places advising cars to turn off a/c to avoid overheating and there were many places with water available for radiators. The FJR never showed over mid-range temperatures so we had no problems. Carried a fair amount of water with us and made many stops to ensure that we were properly hydrated. Vistas presented to us today consisted once more of things that we had never seen before. Decide to skip round trip to Badwater (elev. of -282 feet) but went to Dante's View (elev. 5,475 feet) to get a great view of Death Valley. Lowest elevation that we saw on our trip was -192 feet. First time I've seen negative elevations on my GPS.

Ended up in Vegas for the night and found a room on the south end in order to avoid traffic in the morning. Saw many of the large hotels and casinos from the freeway as we drove through Vegas. Went to South Point Casino for dinner and fed the slots for a while after. Unfortunately neither of us won anything.

Once again photo quality affected by smoke from hundreds of fires in California.

Photos: Mt. Whitney, at over 14,505 feet, highest in contiguous states; Joshua tree; Canyon view at Padre Crowley Point; Death Valley Basin view from Dante's View.

Day 23 - Wed, June 25, 2008 - Oakdale, CA to Bishop, CA - 378.7 km/236.7 mi. Total 7505.7 km./4691.1 mi.

Highest temp noticed today 35C/95F.

Went out this morning to find that the trailer tire was flat. Fortunately it was only a leaking valve so walked down the road to get one at Kragens. Put it in and pumped up the tire and it seemed okay. Checked it again after a short ride and pressure still up so we're on our way.

Rode into Yosemite Park which is in the Sierra Nevada mountain range. The scenery was spectacular and the roads were motorcycle friendly forcing lots of use of the sides of the tire. Ruth decided, at the last minute, that we should make the approx. 64km./40mi. round trip to Yosemite Village in Yosemite Valley and it was well worth it. Changes in elevation, waterfalls and beautiful vistas around every corner. After visiting Yosemite Village and getting back to highway 120 we continued heading east. Weather was great and as we neared the eastern boundary of Yosemite Park we began to see what looked like snow patches at the higher elevations. At the exit point we even saw snow/ice patches near the side of the road and noted a temp. of 19C/66F at the eastern exit. In case you didn't know, Sierra Nevada is Spanish for Snowy Range and I believe it after still seeing snow in late June.
After exiting the park we passed Ellery Lake at an elevation of 9,538 ft. and went through the Tioga Pass. Between here and Bishop, CA, where we stayed for the night, we encountered 3 descents which lasted for 4-8 miles each and had grades of 6%, 7% and 8%. Joan's hybrid would show great mileage here. The last descent occurred approaching Bishop and brought us into very hot and dry conditions.

We ate at Whiskey Creek and had a large serving of delicious, fall off the bone, beef ribs. Large enough that Ruth will have some on Thursday. Had a sampler of some of the local beers ("Beers with Altitude").

The quality of many of our photos was affected by smoke in the area due to the many forest fires in California.

Photos: Don Pedro Lake; Where we came from; One of the tunnels leading to Yosemite Village; Waterfall near the Village; Ron and Ruth in Yosemite; Snow at Ellery Lake; The road through Tioga Pass.

Day 22 - Tue, June 24, 2008 - Mendocino to Oakdale, CA - 439.0 km/274.4 mi. Total 7127.0 km./4454.4 mi.

High temp noted today was 35C/95F.

Ruth's first day on the bike and she found it hot and long. Will get her cooling apparatus (vest, etc.) better prepared for tomorrow. Hope to get an earlier start and take more breaks tomorrow.

The first part of the day followed the reverse route that Ruth had taken with Paul from Santa Rosa (location of Sonoma Airport) to Mendocino on Friday. Passed lots of vineyards on the way and also there was a haze in the air due to many forest fires in the area. Highway 128 is another of those roads that follows the path of least resistance so lots of curves again and more of those warning signs that look like a sideways C with an arrow on one end. When you're already on a very curvy highway and get a warning sign for curves in the next x miles, pay attention.

Passed near Infineon Raceway where a NASCAR race was held on the weekend and an NHRA dragrace will take place on the last weekend in July.

Went a little off our scheduled route to get gas in Oakdale and decided to stay there for the night. Still haven't completely adapted to the fact that it's impossible to fill a motorcycle tank in California due to the design of their filling nozzles. The GPS came through and found the nearest place to gas up.

Photos: none taken today.

Day 21 - Mon,June 23, 2008 - Mendocino - 22 km/35.2 mi. Total 6699.5 km./4211.9 mi.

Ruth and I met Joan and Paul at work at their Thanksgiving Coffee Company. Joan gave us a tour of the company and we met many of their employees. We were given an excellent description of the machinery and processes used in roasting coffee and received very good answers to our many questions.

After our tour we met Paul and were introduced to the cupping process using the many different coffees that he had roasted at the Bakery the previous day. We were instructed on how to smell and taste the coffees using a spoon. We then tried some other roasts that Ben had prepared and tasted some individually and as blends since they were trying to come up with a French Roast for the bakery. Paul then took us outside to show us the garden plots that they have made available as well of some plants that he has on the property. We also saw his composting area and how he uses any compostable materials from the operation and then recycles all other materials that he can. I was quite impressed by the fact that their operation is very clean and efficient as to it's effect on our environment.

Ruth and I took Joan's suggestion to have lunch at Egghead's Restaurant in Fort Bragg and we weren't disappointed. If I had known you followed the yellow brick road to the bathroom there, I would have done so.

We returned to the house and shortly after Jonah showed up on his return from the Sierra Nevada World Music Festival 2008 in Boonville, CA on the weekend. Enjoyed a short visit with him and hope to see him on July 4 weekend.

Photos: The coffee roaster; Joan & Ruth in front of a coffee tree; Paul and his Award; Paul's Lifetime Achievement Award.

Day 20 - Sun, June 22, 2008 - Mendocino - 20 km/32 mi. Total 6667.5 km./4176.7 mi.

Today was a relaxing day after I picked up a few more parts to make minor modifications to my trailer.

Molly came back with Paul and Joan from San Francisco late last night so we got to spend a little time with her before she went out with friends. Paul spent a good part of the day at their bakery in Mendocino roasting coffee and explaining the process to visitors. When Paul returned he showed me around the property, including the cabin they lived in when they first moved here and the wood-fired sauna. Will have to take pictures of these before I leave.

Joan, Paul, Ruth and I went out for dinner in Mendocino at The 955 Ukiah Street Restaurant.

Photos: The truck that Paul & Joan used to move to Mendocino.

Day 19 - Sat, June 21, 2008 - Mendocino - 0 km/0 mi on Bike, Total 6647.5 km./4154.7 mi.

Joan and Paul went to San Francisco to visit a friend. Paul generously left his Mercedes SLK 230 for Ruth and I to use for the day. Always thought I would look good in a car like this and was I right. A real dream to drive as you truly feel connected to the road.

We drove up to Fort Bragg to pick up a few things that I needed to perform some modifications to my trailer. While up there we stopped by Joan and Paul's Thanksgiving Coffee Company and will have to return for a tour later in our stay here. We then went to Mendocino for a bite at their Mendocino Bakery, where Joan had advised Joe, the manager, to give us anything we wanted. The food was delicious and was complemented by very flavourable iced coffee. A walking tour of Mendocino was followed by a visit to the Point Cabrillo Light Station that was built in 1908. Received a voice-mail from Joan advising that they would be late since they would be picking up Molly. We choose one of Joans suggestions for dinner and went to the North Coast Brewing Company in Fort Bragg where I sampled 4 of their fine beers and brought a 6-pack of Red Seal Ale home for Paul and I to enjoy.

Photos: My pal Lucy; Our car for the day; Point Cabrillo Light Station

Day 18 - Fri, June 20, 2008 - Santa Cruz/Monterey Bay KOA to Mendocino, CA - 441.2 km/275.8 mi. Total 6647.5 km./4154.7 mi.

No temp report today since I lost my digital thermometer.

Rode up the coast, crossed the Golden Gate Bridge and started on Hwy 101. Decided Hwy 1 may be a better choice on a bike, even though it's a longer ride, so doubled back to the north side of the bridge to catch 1. A great decision. The ride over the mountain is one switch-back followed by another. Virtually no place to pass. After you get to the coast this is over 250 km. of continually winding road with many 15 mph signs at corners. Very few places to pass cars that ignore the turnout signs asking them to pull over to the side in designated spots to let faster vehicles pass. Really enjoyed the ride as it's like 250 km. of Deals Gap with the longer straight stretches only occurring near the end of the day as I neared Mendocino and Joan (Ruth's cousin) & Paul's place. A few times my foot even touched the ground or reflectors on the road. This road mirrors the coastline in most places, explaining it's nature. Made sure that I purchased a tire back in L.A. area that would give good wear on the center section only to find myself on roads where I only used the center of the tire while transitioning from right to left side.

I once again experienced wide ranges in temperatures as I approached the coast or headed inland.

Stopped for lunch at Whale of a Deli at Point Reyes Station. Grabbed a sandwich and drink and went outside to meet Tom who was riding a K series BMW. Enjoyed his company over lunch and we talked mainly about bikes. He told me that on weekends there are lots of groups riding this road and the choice of bike for carving the turns is the XLR, KLR style of dual purpose bikes. He gave me his business card and I will email him my email address and blog site.

GPS got me to Joan & Paul's where I was greeted by Joan and Lucy (their dog). Paul had gone to San Fran on business so he was going to pick up Ruth in Santa Rosa on the way home. They arrived later and we sat down to a delicious meal that Joan prepared. Ruth crashed shortly after dinner.

Photos: My campsite before packing up in the morning; West Coast View.

Day 17 - Thur, June 19, 2006 - Goleta, CA to Santa Cruz/Monterey Bay KOA - 436.7 km/272.9 mi. Total 6206.3 km./3878.9 mi.

High temp today 41C/106F

I assume Ruth is packed up by now and ready to catch her flight to San Fran and meet me in Mendocino.
Great riding day, primarily on the Pacific Coast Highway with some riding on 101. Entered the Gaviotta Tunnel on Camino Real (NW of Santa Barbara) from a temp of 26C/79F to come out the other side to a temp of 40C/105F within a few minutes. Throughout the day this occurred, usually when you headed away from the ocean and into the valley between the ridges near the ocean & the larger mountains inland. Like switching from the coldest a/c in your car to full heat and vice-versa as you drive. Of course people driving in cages with the a/c on would not would not notice this or the smell of sea air and trees in the area.

The Pacific Coast Highway is very scenic but the best motorcycle riding lies between San Simeon & Carmel. In most places concentration on the road is the prime consideration and not seeing the sites. Stopped for 5-10 minutes due to a rock slide being cleaned up. A guy on KLR passed all of the cars and went to the front of the line so I followed him. I suppose this could be called splitting lanes, legal in CA, but I only did it because traffic was stopped. I don't trust car drivers enough to split lanes in traffic. The KLR guy stated that the trailer hauled pretty well through the curves as he wasn't leaving me far behind after I waved him by. Was pushing many cars, including Porches, through this section of highway but the Porches and a few others had the sense to pull to the side to let me pass. Had to wait for the few straight stretches for others. Notice some Harleys going very slowly around some corners as parts were starting to drag.

Saw a lot of cars stopped at a viewing point for elephant seals so stopped and took a look. Lots in the water and a few on shore. Saw one about 7' long and another about 10' and thought they may be dead at first since there was no movement. However, after a short time they started using their flippers to throw sand over them to shelter them from the sun.

Stopped for a late lunch/early dinner at 16:35 in Caramel. Enjoyed riding so much that I forgot to eat. Had a small beer called Scrimshaw Pilsner. Later found out that it's brewed in Fort Bragg so will have to check out that place when at Joan & Paul's in Mendocino.

There was no smoking allowed on the Santa Monica Pier so had my single malt and cigar tonight to celebrate the end of Route 66.

400 km/250 mi. from next stop in Mendocino late Friday.

Photos: Gaviotta Tunnel; Elephant Seal; Pacific Coast & Road View